MUKONO, UGANDA 15 December 2024

Picture WWE, but instead of flashy arenas and fancy rings, dry bamboo poles bound by conventional ropes surrounding a square of soft clay soil separate wrestlers from spectators in a marshy plot surrounded by eucalyptus trees. Within the ring, young barefoot Ugandan youths hope their skills will lead to fame and glory as they train in ‘soft ground wrestling.’ The fighting sessions imitate the pro-wrestling contests as seen on international television, and the hope is that some of these wrestlers can do well and go professional internationally. All this happens in Mukono, Uganda, 30 kilometres west of the capital, Kampala.

Like WWE, the Ugandan version is as much theatre as sport, with contests announced using the gimmicks of American shows and supervised by a referee in a bold black-and-white striped top. Here, competitors endure rigorous training, and living conditions are spartan. The place now has more than 100 trainees, including women, many of whom are driven by the determination to escape the poverty of their homes. They train extensively for five days every week. Under the blazing sun, they pump weights and practice chokeslam, powerbomb, and other throwing techniques, with their heavy falls cushioned only by a layer of mud.

Many of the trainees here don’t have a clear idea of where wrestling might lead them, but they hope to represent Uganda on the global stage. For now, some have to contend with living in a dorm where they have access to weightlifting equipment.